Picking up where I left off last time, I cut the rounded parts of the legs on the bandsaw and sanded them smooth and I drilled the 5/8″ mortise holes. I also made the back supports. I didn’t get any photos of those steps but they are pretty straight forward. Later I used the veritas conical tenon cutter to refine the tenons I had roughed in on the lathe. It’s important to make sure your tenons are all the same length.
It’s pretty straightforward. Just stop turning the cutter when the end of the tenon is right at the exit hole of the cutter. What’s a little harder is ensuring your reamed leg mortises are the same. I used blue painters tape on my reamer. The process for reaming the mortise holes is well documented around the web. But, in a nut shell you just put one of your stretchers in the hole and check for square, adjusting as necessary. With the tenons cut and mortises reamed I slapped the pieces together.
Now I could turn my attention towards the leather work. I got my rivets and leather tooling so I cut a scrap of leather and riveted it together. That was easy. I knew all along I was going to use a lacing system instead of buckles but after I set a few eyelets in my scrap leather I didn’t really care for the look. I had seen an image of a canvas roorkhee that used metal D loops and decided to use that method. I think it turned out looking great.
There isn’t a lot to say about the leather work. With so few elements to the leather and little visual distraction, clean work is a must. A mis-cut edge or rivets out of line will be obvious. I used a white pencil on the back of my leather and some dividers to ensure straight lines and even spacing. I will say the strap cutter Tandy leather sells will greatly improve the look of your edges and in my opinion is worth the $30 they charge for it.