I’m currently in the planning stages of a 10 foot dining room table build. We picked up the 6/4 and 8/4 stock from Mimms lumber a few days ago.
I’m also peeling apart my failed roubo lamination, scraping and regluing the boards back together. My buddy and I glued up the two tops a month ago but cold temps kept the glue from curing. I suspected this was the case and after moving the tops to franklin and leaving them to sit the boards in the top began to cup and delaminate. So, one at a time I’ve been peeling them apart, scraping off the failed glue, re-jointing and re-gluing.
I scraped and sanded the handle and it’s more or less ready for finishing and managed to drill the bolt holes without a drill press. The saw plate holes were another story! I’ve never worked much with metal and the hardness of the 1095 spring steel amazed me. I burnt through a carbide tipped drill bit drilling just one hole. I ended up getting a Bosch masonry bit that managed to get through but still with a lot of effort. I was able to scavenge some saw bolts from some old cheap beater saws. Behold, it looks like a saw!
A buddy of mine found me a nice antique saw vice from an antique shop for $8 and tonight it was pressed into service. I used a Stanley 42w saw set to add some set and with two passes with a file the saw was set, sharp and ready to cut!
Nice video from FWW about how to mill lumber by hand. He uses Japanese planes but the process is essentially the same with western style planes.
I’ve been slowly making a pair of 20″ panel saws for bench work. I picked up some plates from tgiag.com awhile back. One is punched 10ppi crosscut and the other is 7 ppi rip. I thought I’d make contrasting handles so I could see at a glance which is which. Months ago I finished a walnut handle and today I finally got around to making a curly maple handle.
The handle is modeled after the Disston D7 panel saw handle. I roughed out the blank on the bandsaw. Using three gramercy rasps I roughly shaped the handle. I know there are a million ways to cut the plate kerf but I like to keep it simple and just use a tenon saw.
I came across FWW art director Mike Pekovitch’s blog and immediately fell in love with his white oak tea box.
I brought a small quarter sawn white oak board when I moved the shop with the intentions of using it to build this piece. With the stock flattened and cut to length and thicknessed to 3/8″, I marked out the dovetails and set to work.
This is were the project stands. I need to soften the dovetails further and figure out this whole fuming thing.
I’ve always wanted a nice little brass hammer for adjusting plane irons. But, I couldn’t justify the cost of the very nice Lie-Nielsen, so I made do with a small claw hammer. Recently I came across a neat little hammer on sale at woodcraft, the head is brass and weighs 4oz. But I didn’t like the handle, it looked too big.
So, I set out to rehandle the hammer with a cherry handle. First I ripped a 12″ long x 1 1/4″x 7/8″ piece of Cherry. Then I flattened a face and squared an edge.
Then I gauged a line off the reference face and planed to it and finally shot the ends on a shooting board. Tada! 6 squared faces.
I don’t own a lathe so a round or oval handle was out of the question and I’ve always liked octagonal handles. First I found center on the ends and marked out the tapers. On one end I set a compass to the radius of the opening in the head.
Then, using a #4 plane set up for a heavy shaving I planed the tapers on all four faces. Then I used a compass to lay out the octagon on the ends. And, using the same no. 4 I cut the octagonal faces. I finished each face with a finely set no. 4 1/2 plane. Finally I used a chisel to pare off the vertices of the octagonal handle until the head just fit. Lastly, I drilled a 3/32″ hole and cut a short kerf to accept an ebony wedge to lock the head to the handle.