A few things in the works

I’m currently in the planning stages of a 10 foot dining room table build. We picked up the 6/4 and 8/4 stock from Mimms lumber a few days ago.

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I’m also peeling apart my failed roubo lamination, scraping and regluing the boards back together. My buddy and I glued up the two tops a month ago but cold temps kept the glue from curing. I suspected this was the case and after moving the tops to franklin and leaving them to sit the boards in the top began to cup and delaminate. So, one at a time I’ve been peeling them apart, scraping off the failed glue, re-jointing and re-gluing.

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Panel sized rip saw progress

I scraped and sanded the handle and it’s more or less ready for finishing and managed to drill the bolt holes without a drill press. The saw plate holes were another story! I’ve never worked much with metal and the hardness of the 1095 spring steel amazed me. I burnt through a carbide tipped drill bit drilling just one hole. I ended up getting a Bosch masonry bit that managed to get through but still with a lot of effort. I was able to scavenge some saw bolts from some old cheap beater saws. Behold, it looks like a saw!

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A buddy of mine found me a nice antique saw vice from an antique shop for $8 and tonight it was pressed into service. I used a Stanley 42w saw set to add some set and with two passes with a file the saw was set, sharp and ready to cut!

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Panel saw handle

I’ve been slowly making a pair of 20″ panel saws for bench work. I picked up some plates from tgiag.com awhile back. One is punched 10ppi crosscut and the other is 7 ppi rip. I thought I’d make contrasting handles so I could see at a glance which is which. Months ago I finished a walnut handle and today I finally got around to making a curly maple handle.

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The handle is modeled after the Disston D7 panel saw handle. I roughed out the blank on the bandsaw. Using three gramercy rasps I roughly shaped the handle. I know there are a million ways to cut the plate kerf but I like to keep it simple and just use a tenon saw.

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If you take your time and follow your line well, I find it isn’t too hard to get good results.

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There is still a lot more sanding and shaping to go…

Mike Pekovitch Tea Box

I came across FWW art director Mike Pekovitch’s blog and immediately fell in love with his white oak tea box.

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I brought a small quarter sawn white oak board when I moved the shop with the intentions of using it to build this piece. With the stock flattened and cut to length and thicknessed to 3/8″, I marked out the dovetails and set to work.

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Since the tops and bottoms were quarter sawn and only around 4″ in width I choose to just glue the top and bottom on. We will see.

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I cut the curly maple pieces for the interior of the box to length and shot the miters on a shooting board.

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This is were the project stands. I need to soften the dovetails further and figure out this whole fuming thing.

Plane Iron Adjusting hammer

I’ve always wanted a nice little brass hammer for adjusting plane irons. But, I couldn’t justify the cost of the very nice Lie-Nielsen, so I made do with a small claw hammer. Recently I came across a neat little hammer on sale at woodcraft, the head is brass and weighs 4oz. But I didn’t like the handle, it looked too big.
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So, I set out to rehandle the hammer with a cherry handle. First I ripped a 12″ long x 1 1/4″x 7/8″ piece of Cherry. Then I flattened a face and squared an edge.
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Then I gauged a line off the reference face and planed to it and finally shot the ends on a shooting board. Tada! 6 squared faces.
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I don’t own a lathe so a round or oval handle was out of the question and I’ve always liked octagonal handles. First I found center on the ends and marked out the tapers. On one end I set a compass to the radius of the opening in the head.
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Then, using a #4 plane set up for a heavy shaving I planed the tapers on all four faces. Then I used a compass to lay out the octagon on the ends. And, using the same no. 4 I cut the octagonal faces. I finished each face with a finely set no. 4 1/2 plane. Finally I used a chisel to pare off the vertices of the octagonal handle until the head just fit. Lastly, I drilled a 3/32″ hole and cut a short kerf to accept an ebony wedge to lock the head to the handle.
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